BORDEAUX: Great White Sighting

Vineland(Vinland) is how Leif Ericson described berry-bearing North America after sailing west about 1000 years ago.  If he had sailed south instead on to the Franc shores of Bordeaux, he would have discovered grapevines in much greater abundance in the gravel soils of the long established Roman outpost of Graves.  The Holy Empire had long since collapsed centuries earlier, and his fellow Viking raiders had already plundered Bordeaux and Gascony by the mid-9th century. But the vines and the wine culture had already been well established by Leif's time, their quality reputation increasingly galvanized from the English gains in the Hundred Years War. It was a succession of thirsty English kings who began exporting from the Right Bank of St. E'milion as early as 1302. The international business of Bordeaux took further steps in the centuries to come via the Dutch engineered drainage of its swamp water and the emergence of their many wine loving negociants.

In Bordeaux, the largest winegrowing area in France, almost 300,000 acres of vineyards support more than 13,000 grape growers and more than 10,000 producers. Annually, more than 960 million bottles, produced under 5 broad classifications, within 63 appellations continue to define this important commercial region. By comparison, all of California produces about 207 million cases of wine from more than 500,000 acres and 5000 grape growers. Bordeaux is a perfect place for the vine, vitis vinifera.  A maritime climate, its mild ambient temperature, combine with the natural drainage of its poor soils, the prominent influence of the numerous waterways(Aquitaine: land of many waters), and the protection from its western Landes forest to make Bordeaux a very unique vine land.  Here, the years can start out cold and wet, as they did in 2013, slowly producing drastically reduced yields from poor fruit set(coulure). Disappointment was compounded by record hail in August of that same year.  But, in Bordeaux, when one hand is soiled the other typically raises in triumph, as it did when the fungus botrytis(noble rot) broke out early enough to take advantage of good October weather in Barsac and Sauternes in the south.

'Noble Rot' fungus, botrytis cinerea

Its this on-the-edge environment that created a need to historically blend varietals, where the sum of the parts are greater than the whole. Unlike Burgundy, Alsace or the Rhineland, the Bordelaise have become the masters of that art; blends that optimize the unique ripening schedules and essential personalities of companion grape varieties. Combined with their growing export demand and commerce, regional quality controls were increasingly necessary. At the broad base of the stringent quality control pyramid Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supe'rieur AOC represent slightly more than 50% of the Gironde department's annual production and can be produced from anywhere in the Bordeaux region. Cotes de Bordeaux,  a more limited & elevated designation is available to producers in the eastern banked hills above the river Garonne, and balance stringent regional AOC's of Me'doc, Graves, Saint-E'milion, Pomerol and Fronsac which straddle both sides of the important waterway.  Under this umbrella of locale there sits the sub-Me'doc classifications: Crus Artisans, and then Crus Bougeois which recognizes about 250 prized properties belonging to the Cru Bougeois Alliance.  Crowning the pyramid are the 61 chateaux ranked Grand Cru Classe's, spawning from the famous 1855 merchant ranking required by Emperor Napole'on III.  Historically, the commercial ranking was the first of its kind.

Gravel topsoils dominate vineyards of Graves

Within the 5-tier classification, only Chateau Haut-Brion in Graves was outside the northern region of the Me'doc.  Additionally, sweet white wine(27) properties from Sauternes and Barsac were ranked separately within three(3) Crus; with long revered Chateau d'Yaquem sitting at the top. Almost 100 years later, sixteen(16) properties south of the city of Bordeaux were classified as, Cru Classe' des Graves; established in 1953, it was revised in 1959. Geographically, these chateau were clustered in the north of this region, resulting in its world class reds and whites breaking away in 1987 to form the Pessac-Le'ognan AOC, as a more prestigious appellation. Although these regional siblings produce more white wine than red, it is the only place in Bordeaux where red and white wines are equally regarded, per wine historian Oz Clarke. Stemming from the 1959 administrative decree, quality semi-sweet and sweet wines were regulated under AOC Graves Supe'rieures.

If Entre Deux Mares, the land between two seas(rivers), is on the label the wine must be a white varietal blend from its sandy and clay soils.  Here, the large production regions best reds are sold as Bordeaux Supe'rieur. To the southwest, the white wine 'superior' appellations of Barsac and Sauternes produce luxuriously fine sweet wines of honey, fig and dried yellow fruit character in the viscous, rich body that makes the perfect match for foie gras, a rich cheese or a decadent fruit dessert.  Importantly, some of the greatest white wines in the world are produced in these regions, south of the city of Bordeaux.  At thier base is Semillion, an easy to grow thin-skinned variety is easily effected by botrytis, offering musky notes of apricot and oily honey; one of the most widely planted Bordeaux grape varieties a few centuries ago, but of late its vineyard march has reversed.  Much of its acreage has been taken by blending partner, noble Sauvignon Blanc, with its aromatic freshness, bright acidity and traces of minerality.  Together they are brilliantly yin and yang. In a support role, Muscadelle, is a minor white grape with bright floral tone, although it too is easily effected by the noble rot.

Every region needs a work horse.  Here, it is the ubiquitous Ugni Blanc(know as Trebbiano in Italy), where it produces aromatic though simple, everyday white table wines when it is not blended with other Bordeaux whites.  However in Cognac to the northeast, and in Armagnac to the south, this everyday worker is the varietal basis for the areas internationally famous fortified wines. Although not typically part of the Semillion-dominated blend that makes some of the worlds best sweet wines, Ugni Blanc does make its way into the beautiful, rich discoveries we so often called White Bordeaux.  Their body, their texture and aromatics make them richly different from Sancerre or a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  These wines can be refreshingly complicated and multi-faceted, yet offer great examples of  food-friendly whites that marry beautifully with light seafood dishes or a light lunch. Should room be left for dessert, a Sauternes or a Barsac would be the perfect partner for a decadent fruit tart or creme brulee.

Great whites have been sighted in Bordeaux, and when found they offer us a discovery that would even make Leif envious. Cheers!

Recommended: Chateau Tertre de Launay Entre-Deux-Mers 2012


http://www.bordeaux.com/us

PAIRING: More than 2 Together?

Bright sunlight, clear skies and a neat garden made the lunch special.  We sat on the comfort of the deck, around our Summer table, although it was mild and late November!  Fettuccine Carbonara and a garden salad with a mild citrus vinaigrette danced here with an inexpensive White Burgundy from the 2009 harvest, still its briny acidity dancing in the mouth.

Anderson Valley AVA Hilltop

It had blossomed into a celebration of sorts.  A strong recovery after a serious illness is a good reason to celebrate, particularly when being in the Thanksgiving mood.  The Society of Wine Educators also had recently given their official approval of my examination of Wine Faults & Imbalances, thereby allowing progress to the Presentation Skills Demonstration.  The journey's end may be near, and that too is a reason to celebrate.  It is the Season, after all.

Refreshing Riesling likes acid, salt and oily pairings.

Merchandising, those Holiday parties, and the general euphoria of the good cheer expressed by friends, by family, and even by strangers, are the hallmarks of the weeks that followed.  It is the Season, after all.  Even as we were surrounded by the warmth of well wishers, my focus continued to return to the urgent need to submit a declared subject and an outline to the Society for my Presentation Skill video exam. One of six(6) subjects were available at this time, and I found myself only considering those that I thought that I had some confident command over.  But, the more I read about Carbonic Maturation, or the Wines of Sicily, or even White Burgundy, the more unsettled or unsure I found myself.

Demonstrating command of the subject matter with the ability to coherently present understandable details about the uniqueness of Chablis, or the white Aligonte' grape would certainly make Burgundy interesting. And the idea of being able to practically convey a fermentation inside of a grape berry, as is the case with carbonic maturation, actually made my head hurt a bit. Alternatively, having more than 3000 years of winemaking history, the paradise that is Sicily was definitely a ripe subject to consider.  Most wine drinkers have probably heard of its fortified Marsala, but what about the islands prominent red, Nerello Mascalese or even Frappato? I would have to declare a choice and develop an outline soon, but which one?

Those closest to me say that I work well under deadlines, and that is exactly what I have created.  The Society will offer new subject matter choices in February, but I really do not want to delay this attempt at advancing my Certification.  At this point, the production of the video seminar is still in the distance, but it does little harm to put energy into lining up a videographer, a production setting and an audience of at least six(6) supporters.  It does little harm, I think, to put those carrots in front of this horse.  Our newly launched service web site: www.your-wine-guy.net, is just one of those hopefully positive influences that will move this quest for certification forward.

As much as we look forward, this is also the time of year when we look back. As I reviewed our 2013 wine impressions, there were a few notables that stood out as being some of the best wines enjoyed this year.  All of our wine samplings will be found on the popular wine lovers site: http://www.snooth.com/my-wines/InWineTruth

In no particular order, the standouts for the year include two French and two Spanish treasures:

• Resso Garnacha Blanca 2011 from Spain was a delight, with its lively, tart

         fruit body and racy acidity it was a wonderful lunch time, a chicken and seafood
         refreshment.

• Mayor de Ondarre 'Reserve' 2006, also from Spain(Rioja), proved to be everything we wanted in a rich, food-friendly red wine.  It has ripe, dusty black tree fruit character with candied spices that linger with an integrated length on the palate; perfect for what we braised or smoked because of its firm structure and earthy richness.

•  Domaine du Garde Temps Rose' Tourbillon 2011, produced in southern France, proved to be a delight, with wispy, lively white strawberry and Rainer cherry notes and a very long bright finish.  A terrific sipper from the land of rose' that worked with summer salads and Cajun fried chicken. Yum!
  

• Pierre Sparr Cre'mant d'Alsace Brut Rose; gorgeous strawberry and white cherry notes dance across the palate with balanced acidity.  Stop the bus, what a terrific traditional method sparkling wine that pairs with almost everything!

  These wines were so food friendly, enhancing the meals by either a complement or a contrast to each dish.  Each side dish placed the notes differently(as they should), but each added to the flavors and the enjoyment of the meal.  With good times, or lovingly prepared food or good friends and good value wines, it is always the perfect pairing when we can get more than two(2) together!

  Happy New Year, and Salute! 

   

BRAMBLES: A New Harvest

Summer in the RRV American Viticultural Area

Caressed by the bright, warming sun of a mid-August afternoon, we sat across from each other enjoying plates of linguine with Romanesco sauce and hot sausage, steamed broccoli dressed in Parmesan and lemon oil, and  hearty stew of braised lamb necks with carrots & onions.  The Wilson Vineyards & Winery Ellie's Vineyard Zinfandel from the rich Sonoma County 2005 harvest was robust and perfect. An opaque black plum hue with a mahogany rim, its aromas announced stewed stone fruits and spice, with robust, juicy black cherries, earthy dried herbs, with a hint of pepper that lingered on the palate.  "This is summer", I thought.

These long days and mild nights have drawn us outside, consistently dining al fresco. Surrounded by the seasonal growth and flowering so abundant in our garden this time of year, we celebrate almost daily a nearly complete remodeled kitchen, getting our student off to law school,  the important first steps taken by our grandson, and our reconnected time together. We have reason to celebrate.  Our health is with us, our debt is small, and our appetites for good food and travel are abundant.  How fortunate we are too that we can travel this bountiful world vicariously one delicious glass at a time.  In past bright days, other selections  having recently crossed our table include:

Chateau Tertre de Launay 2012 Entre-Deux-Mers Blanc (12% alc.) bright light hay in appearance with a floral, wet grass and citrus aroma that announce notes of grapefruit, quince and yellow grass flowing with a bit of limestone minerality,  and lingering refreshingly long on the palate.  This is consistently one terrific value, and makes you thirsty for more.  What more can we ask of a wine?

A Taste of Summer

Saint Roch les Veigns 2012 Cotes de Provence (13% alc.) offered a translucent pink rose hue with an intriguing nose of dried strawberries, Rainer cherries, and rose-petals; dry and crisp on the palate, it sings with blushingly bright red berry fruits with a hint of minerality across a refreshing long departure.

We've had this wine from prior vintages, and it never fails to impress with its refreshing focus, its balance and tart fruit profile. Versatile, it finds its way to pair with many of our summer dishes and events, offering a consistent reminder of why rose' wines are so delightfully shared under the sun. 

Moshin Vineyards 2006 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (14% alc.) still holding a bright red garnet hue and offering a nose of dried red fruits with a floral component; on the palate its bright acidity carries tart red cherries, tea leaf and wood spice over a moderately long finish.  It made me think that Thanksgiving was quickly approaching, and it reflects wonderfully on the unique wine growing region we are fortunate enough to inhabit.  It is our beautiful, regional backyard.

A new kitchen's first Summer

The escapist in me wants to get away, just the two of us.  But even in Summer, there is work to do.  I owe the Society of Wine Educators a much-delayed paper, and I've got to prepare a presentation for our local wine tasting forum. We've got to prepare the house and its surroundings for our annual garden party, and as always, I've got to continue to search out the great value wines of the world.  If I don't make the time, don't make the commitment to these and so many others, there is a good chance they will simply wilt on the vine.  Wilting away my ambition, my dreams, and relationships simply cannot be part this or any cycle.  Like the nearby vineyards brimming with ripe fruit, this is the time we have nurtured and waited for.  If un-plucked, these unique opportunities will naturally be taken away.  It is, after-all, a season for a new harvest!

Ripening RRV Chardonnay

In these dog days my energies need to be devoted more earnestly towards working to completing my goal of Certification.  Excuses that I so conveniently produce should be exposed to the sun, so that the real work I need to accomplish can continue.  As a result, there may be a brief interruption in our regular posting schedule for this journal, but with a possible new harvest just over an upcoming calendar page.  That would be a New Harvest!
Salute!

BRAMBLES; What am I Drinking?

Aix en Provence vineyard in Summer

Summer daze, each early sunrise folding into the next, with dried grasses and leaves carpeting our hillsides and my gutters seems to relax my spirit. Perhaps it was the eleven(11) week kitchen remodel that had forced us to camp at home that set this seasonal picnic table.  I know that the late-Spring upheaval that marched thru our home lives was disruptive, but I continually found myself giving in to it.  Don't fight it, I thought, it is bigger than us.  My primal hope was that our major kitchen project would not overly stress our routines, that I could take a shower(even if was a cold one!), and that our resources would not run out before our kitchen was up and running once again.  And, of course, that I could continue to be able to search out and enjoy great value wines from around the world.

Shrouded over all of this was that fact that I needed to continue to pursue with focus my quest to be certified as a Wine Educator.  The national Society of Wine Educators had given me opportunity to overcome the challenge of the Faults and Imbalances wine exam, but I continually found it difficult to commit to the time, the research, and the unwavering focus necessary to effectively overcome its trial.  Our family obligations(including my son's college graduation), our work schedules, and the kitchen remodel were, for me, convenient excuses not to focus on wine testing.

Ah, but wine tasting was a different matter altogether.  If this quest of becoming a Certified Wine Educator has taught me anything, it is to be critically appreciative of each and every glass.  It tells me that on each and every day I present wines to consumers or shed light into the wines that they enjoy, I educate. The process reminds me of why I enjoy wine, a living story in a bottle, so much.  On our garden deck, under the sun or between those infrequent Spring showers, we share a bottle to enhance our food and enrich our experience, even if we have no kitchen.

Along with quality wine values of Chenin Blanc from the Loire, Sauvignon Blanc from Quincy & Reuilly, and the occasional Cru Beaujolais, here are a few selections that were recently enjoyed:
 
Commanderie de la Bargemone, 2012 Coteaux d'Aix en Provence(AOC): abundant aromas of wild strawberries, red currants and summer flowers; bright and crisp notes of red fruits dance across the palate with a hint of spice that refreshingly lingers. 12.5% Alcohol

Sansilvestro Cantine 'Domina', 2010 Barbera d'Alba(DOC): Dark ruby hue, with ripe aromas of red fruits and leather; bright and lively red cherries, black raspberries and licorice across a rich palate with integrated tannins that remains round in the mouth.  13.5% Alcohol

Barbera vineyards of Monferrato, Piemonte

Gabbiano 2009 Chianti Classico(DOCG): Dark garnet hue, restrained aromas of dark, dried fruits with a hint of leather; expressively rich flavors of dried cherries, dried cranberries and orange with an little dried tea leaf, framed in sweet wood with integrated tannins that echo over a moderately long finish. 13.5% Alcohol

Viticcio Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico(DOCG): Opaque garnet hue, rich aromas of dried red fruits and cedar, introduce rich and earthy notes of dried cherries and currants, licorice and tobacco over a long, silky finish.  13.5% Alcohol

Bodegas Ondarre 2006 Mayor de Ondarre Riserva (Rioja DOC): Dark ruby bright, ripe aromas of dark tree fruits and candied spice; robust flavor notes of black cherry, red currants and spicy vanilla ingrained in fine tannins over a long, elegant finish. 14% Alcohol

Garden Chardonnay, Russian River Valley

With our kitchen nearly complete and the garden tomatoes ripening, I have an renewed opportunity to commit to the tasks at hand.  Much like the Summer's bounty, there has been a long, slow and lazy development towards our upcoming harvest.  As we eagerly anticipate our first party from our new kitchen and as I look towards accomplishing the long nurtured goal of a professional certification, there will always be a lingering question in our house. "What am I drinking?"

To Your Health!

BRAMBLES: Simply Summer Quenching

It's warm outside and these bright days are long.  Summer has arrived to the vineyard, and in its heat you can almost see the vines grow, the berries develop every day.  I've noticed that my beer consumption increases these days, mostly because it is refreshing to have something cool in a chilled bottle.  It quenches a thirst, it hydrates, and it goes with the foods that we enjoy eating outdoors.  Grillin' and chillin' are for many of us the way to get thru these long, lazy days.

Inspiring, insightful contributing wine editor, Matt Kramer, noted in a recent Wine Spectator issue that the wines of summer typically are for our simple drinking pleasure.  It certainly helps if they are chilled, and perhaps even if they are uncomplicated.  For me it is the season of Rose' from the Mediterranean and cru Beaujolais, these are the months of aromatic Torrantes and lusciously tart Albarinos, as well as chillingly dry Rieslings from Alsace and the Rhine.  They sit in the cooler, quite patiently, next to the bottles of beer.

Rhone vineyard with gallet(stones)

In recent years, Rose' wines have begun to shed their consumer image of being too sweet, or too feminine. Supporting this wave, contemporary marketing strategies continue to billow the sales, with programs such as the successful  'Real Men Drink Pink'.   Consistent market indicators showing sustained volume growth across all sales categories, reflects pink wines to be on the coat tails of this very positive trend which is aided by new packaging, such as the improved wine box or pouches. With sunny Spain and the Mediterranean producers leading the Rose' way, there are many great pink values, such as Falesco's Vitiano Rosato from Umbria. And most of them are aromatic, vibrant and refreshingly dry.

Domestic producers, too, are catching the Rose' wave.  Many of these bottles efficiently give producers another wine product from the same fruit source as their more costly premium label. In practice, you can produce a Grenache and a Grenache-rose' all grown in the same vineyard. I have found the James Family Cellars Rose' of Pinot Noir, as well as the Robert Hall Rose de Robles to be consistent, excellent values, filled with bright red fruits and dancing with acidity.

These, and many more, make simple summer sipping easy.  They pair cheerfully with many of our favorite summer foods and many of these bottlings have easy to access screw-caps.  Plus, if your cooler is tall enough, they fit nicely chilled right next to those bottles of beer.

For me, a ball game on the radio, a fresh taco in my hand, and a glass of Rose' nearby easily echo the best of the summer.  Cheers!