ITALY: Defined by Grapes that Hang On

Life is wine and wine is life in Italy, among the world's largest consumers, producers and exporters of this ancient libation. If the whole of Italy is a vineyard, with over 300 defined production zones in twenty(20) political regions, then perhaps Italy can be defined by its regional and native grape varieties. The vine has been here in this hilly, mountainous peninsula with its moderating sea influences since the colonization of the ancient Greeks. Here it is the time-honored tradition to match the right grape(native or international) to the perfectly compatible climate, soils and landscape.

In the foggy North, from the Alpine foothills of Piedmont, the tannic red grape Nebbiolo(Spanna) produces the regions famed Barolo DOCG's within its delimited production zone of the Langhe hills. To the east of central Alba, the more feminine Barbaresco's are found from three(3) communes, and in the northern hills the communes of Gattinara and Ghemme produce lighter blended styles from the same grape base. The surrounding provinces produce defining whites from the Moscato and Cortese grapes(Gavi DOCG), as well as aromatic, red Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG, still or frizzante(sparkling), long established as a regional specialty. High acid, low tannin red Barbera and fruity Dolcetto are among the most widely planted varietals in these hills, but usually found in the less prestigious soils.

Head east and Chardonnay in Lombardy's traditional method Franciacorta DOCG is the sparkling superstar, while the remote outpost of Valtellina DOCG, is still a Nebbiolo(Chiavennasca) blend, and a white workhorse, Malvasia is found here as well. A Red Moscato, grown near Bergamo, is the passito base for the speciality Moscato di Scanzo DOCG. Emilia-Romagna, to the south is home to Italy's first white DOCG, Albana di Romagna, made from the local Albana grape, in a volume region mostly known as the producer of volumes of light, red Lambrusco blends.

Old & New: Alto Adige trellis & pergolas

One of the tri-states, autonomous Trentino-Alto Adige is a northernmost region proudly growing international varieties, most of it DOC status, with whites like Pinot Grigo, Pinot Blanco and Muller-Thurgau. Sweeping eastward is the Veneto, cultivating huge amounts of white Garganega blends for Soave DOC's. Another important regional grape is the red Corvina Veronese, found as the base in Bardolino and Valpolicella DOC blends,  reaching its greatest expression  as partially dried recioto in the notable Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG. Popular Charmat method Prosecco is made traditionally from the Prosecco(Glera) grapes, and the base of the region's Bellini cocktails. As the eastern border Slovakian neighbor, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, once part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, is a prominently white wine region, with a mix of international and native varietals like Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Malvasia. The region has one DOCG, sweet Ramandolo from the Verduzzo white grape. An important regional DOC is Colli Orientali del Friuli from the Friulano grape, with native Picolit produced as another important white grape which is allowed in the passito sweet DOC.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Vast central hills of Tuscany, have cultured numerous clones of the native Sangiovese grape over the centuries. Delineation of a Chianti Classico region from 1716 recognized an original zone of production and was officially canonized in 1932, finally becoming part of DOC regulations in 1966. Hilltop Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is derived from an un-blended  Sangiovese clone, having a brown skin when ripe, it can produce one of the world's great wines.Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG is from the 'Prugnolo gentile' clone of the same grape, and can produce great wines of good value. Carmignano DOCG is also based in Sangiovese, but was the first DOC to allow amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc in its regional Italian blend. Notably, the region's white Vernaccia of San Gimignano was the first in Italy to be awarded DOC status

In the South, Umbria's popular Orvieto DOC is made from widely cultivated Trebbiano, Grechetto and Malvasia white grapes within the historic commune. The same grapes are blended further South in Latium's Frascati DOC, so popular in the cafe's of Rome. Local native Sagrantino grapes are the base of Umbria's Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG, which is produced in dry or sweet(dolce) styles, and we also find Sangiovese blended again in the communal DOCG Torgiano Rossa Riserva. Widely planted Trebbiano(Ugli Blanc) appears again in mountainous Abruzzo as Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, but the regions DOCG comes from a local red variety, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Towards the Adriatic, the hills of Marche have the high-acid white grape variety Verdicchio, a perfect partner for the local catch of the day, as well as white Vernaccia grapes in numerous DOC blends. Red Montepulciano shows its cloned head again in the regions DOCG, Conero-Rosso Riserva.

Volume-producing Apulia is a dominant red-wine region and home for many migratory ancient varietals, such as the red/black Primitivo and Negromaro grapes. Aglianico is another ancient Greek variety, and known as the Nebbiolo of the South. It is proudly found as the principal red grape in Campania's Taurasi DOCG and in Basilicata's only DOCG, the volcanic-nurtured Aglianico del Vulture. As 'Magna Graecia' other historic white grape varieties, like Greco di Tufo, in still or frizzate styles, and the classic, aromatic Fiano di Avellino found DOCG homes in the Campania sunshine. Fiano was also planted on the large island of Sardinia, but is overshadowed by a more famous white, Vermentino di Gallura DOCG. Across the sea in Liguria the same Vermentino grape is known by the synonym Pigato. While under the Crown of Aragon, the vineyards of Sardinia also rooted imported varieties like the white Tourbat, the red Carignan and Nerello.Not every variety of the South has been imported. Autonomous and mountaneous, Sicily has the native black Nero d'Avola grape, important in producing the islands' Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG. Often conquered Sicily is known more as a volume producer and the home of Marsala DOC, a fortified and aged sweet wine from a collection of native white grapes dominated by Catarrato and Grillo.

Today, the wines of Italy are a curios mix of appellation and varietal labeling, as they have throughout history, perhaps because the region is defined by its grape(s). Labels offering a 'Riserva' designation additionally reflect additional aging, usually 2 years longer. While the often used 'Classico' claim typically refers to the original zone of traditional production for that regional product. Veiled over all of this are the top quality tier of the DOCG wines, those of 'controlled designation of origin guaranteed', applied to 47 regional wines, who in theory represent the best of their appellations. All that needs to be done is to match the right regional grape with the perfect spot to cultivate it, and then hang on for more than 2000 years.

ITALY: Need to Know

Attempting to be as well prepared as possible for the upcoming Wine Educators exam, I asked the Society to send me their Preview Workbook. Along with a few sample questions and critical grading criteria, it noted that a full third of the written exam would cover the wines and regions of France & Italy.  With just a few weeks left, it  was time to explore the 'need to know details' of the vine paradise known by the ancient Greeks as Wine Land.

• Northern Italy Need to Know's

Veneto's dominant grape of Soave DOCG is Garganega, a required 70% of blend minimum.
The region's principal grape of blended Amarone della Valpolicella is red Corvina. Bordolino Superiore DOCG is made from the same grapes, but grown in different zones and with different blended proportions.
Amarone Riserva aging requirement is a minimum four years prior to release.
Proscecco DOCG sparkling wines are made from 85% minimum Proscecco white grapes.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia's Colli Orientali del Friuli DOCG and Ramondolo DOCG's are made from local variety dried grapes, Picolit and  white Ramandolo, respectively.
Most of Trentino-Alto Adige's production shows its German-Austrian roots, with volumes of quality wines from Muller-Thurgau, Traminer and the red Lagrein and Teroldego grapes.
Italy's most important DOCG for traditional method sparkling wines is Lombardy's Franciacorta DOCG. Riservas must be aged a minimum of five years. In the northeast of this region, Valtellina DOCG wines are produced with a minimum 70% Chiavennasca(Nebbiolo) and blended with Pinot Nero(Pinot Noir)

 Albana di Romagna, located in Emilia-Romana,  was Italy's first white wine DOCG. The region produces great volumes of vino da tavola, like the popular Lambrusco, based from the grape of the same name.
Umbria's Orvietto is based in principal white grapes of Grechetto and Trebbiano(Ugli Blanc). The red grape, Sagrantino is the basis of Montefalco DOCG, and the region's Sangiovese blend, Torgiano Riserva DOCG, produce arguably the region's red best wines.

Important Piedmont communes of Neive and Treiso found in the Barbaresco DOCG, where we also find the village of Barbaresco. Of the numerous communes producing some if Italy's greatest, long lived wines,  Cannubi is considered among the best cru of Barolo DOCG.
Barbaresco and Barolo's Nebbiolo grape is known by a variety of synonyms: Spanna, Chiavennasca(Lombardy), and Picotendro (Picutener). The regions Northern hills are the home of Gattinara DOCG and Ghemme DOCG, with red blends based on Spanna.
Gavi DOCG is produced in the south of the Piedmont region and based on the white Cortese grape.
A sweet, sparkling red wine from native Brachetto grapes is a specialty of the region, Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG.  Another important regional product is Vermouth, produced with a minimum 70% wine base, and then fortified and flavored with herbs and local spices.

Smallest of Northern Italy's regions, Valle d'Aosta, borders Switzerland and produces numerous wine varieties that have only attained DOC status. Flanking Piedmont to the South, Liguria's most important white grape is Pigato(Vermentivo), and also produces locally consumed DOC wines.

Central Italy's Tuscany region is home to seven(7) DOCG's, mostly based on the workhorse red variety, Sangiovese, and its many clones. Chianti Classico DOCG, the original zone of production, is located between Florence and Siena, and has rigid productions standards. Wines labeled Chianti DOCG are produced by growers in a much wider(varied) and encompassing landscape.
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, is the noble product of the Brunello(little brown one) clone, from the small hilltop village. Neighboring Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, is based on another Sangiovese clone known as Prugnolo.
Carmignano DOCG, is a rosso blend of Sangiovese and mostly Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc. In the regions Southwest, is the newly recognized, Morellino di Scansano DOCG, yet another Sangiovese based wine. Notable in this region, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is produced from the local white Vernaccia grape, and has DOCG status.


Terms indicating wine produced from dried grapes include: Recioto, Passito, and Sforzato. The term Ripasso, literally to 'pass over', reflects a fermentation on the wines lees. DOC and DOCG wines labeled Riserva have been aged longer. Wines indicating Superiore have a higher level of alcohol or aging or come from a specific geographical region.  Vino Santo is a Italy's maderized dessert wine made in sweet and dry versions from dried, local grapes.

DOCG wines rank at the top of Italy's quality pyramid, and are intended to guarantee the authenticity and region of origin with the highest standards. All of the wines in this ranking are subject to taste and chemical evaluations by professional panels. In 2004 there were only 29 DOCG wines, today there are 55 throughout the country!

And, that is just almost half of it.  More later...I need more time to study!