Wednesday, November 16, 2016

SICILY; Lost & Found

Sun-baked, wind swept vineyards of Occhipinti, Vittoria DOCG
 Everything on this sunny, wind swept Mediterranean island seems to have seeds; the eggplant, the tomatoes, the prickly pear, and certainly the grapes.  The nucleus of life, the seeds of Sicily are a reflection of the native spirit and passion, a time capsule of its long history of cultural occupation that creates a wonderfully unique confluence.  Grillo and Catarratto, white grapes that are the basis for fortified Marsala DOC, as well as sea food-friendly table wines, combine here with reds Frappato and Nero D'Avola to create a uniquely native wine grape palate, distinctively Sicily.

Greeks may have introduced the vine here almost 3000 years ago, followed by the Phoenicians of the Fertile Crescent, and the cultivating, wine loving Romans.  Goth's, the Byzantine's, the Arabs and the Normans followed in rapid succession, creating a broad stroke of multi-cultural influences and instability. As the unity of Norman rule influenced language and religion, creating the Kingdom of Sicily in 1154, it eventually would fall under the influence of the Crown of Aragon in the late 15th century. Even as this period would usher wealth and influence for the strategic island, the 18th/19th centuries would again create instability, culminating in a constitution that initiated the end of feudalism and eventually a unification with the Kingdom of Italy in 1860. Neglectful governing would then give way to powerful networks of organized crime and radical left-wing peasant labor, the popular fascist rise of Mussolini, and eventually the Allies devastating Invasion of Sicily in 1943.  It would be then a miracle that any Sicilian identity would persevere, or even survive, for to be Sicilian was to be under the influence of others.
Amphora of Sicilian antiquity
In post-war reconstruction, sweeping land reforms of the 1950's gave new rise to the workers small farm cooperatives, and for its survival, Sicily became the undistinguished volume wine producer for all of Italy.  A national launch ushered in 1963, established an official system, regulating the wine industry, and creating important categorization and guidelines.  Over the following decades the Italian DOC(Controlled Designation of Origin) system was updated, creating top-tier DOCG and the regional typicity of the IGT categories in 1992.  Even as it was presented with its lone DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily remained a source for mostly simple table wines, or Vino di Tavola produced from its unique native grapes. 

What perseveres is a love of this land, a dedication to the life it gives; from the broad, fertile soils of the Mt. Etna wash, to the clay & limestone jagged profile of the rugged south. In the most recent generations her wine producers have moved towards an increasingly sustainable landscape, to smaller vineyard yields that enhance indigenous grape characteristics. Experiments with IGT blends that include recognizable international varieties, like Cabernet Sauvignon, are also becoming increasingly marketed.  And, global recognition for its diverse quality wines grows daily, from innovative and contemporary producers like Hugues de la Gatinais, Marco de Bartoli, and the dedicated enterprises of the Occhipinti family. Today, from their ancient and indigenous vines, Sicily is generating new and vibrant life from the seeds of its resilient past. And for the generations to come, a Sicily which was so often lost can once again be luminously found. Salute'!

Sicilian palmento in an 18th century farmhouse(restored)
"If we want things to stay as they are, things will have to change."
The Leopard, Guiseppe di Lampedusa

Tasting Values:
  Stemmari Nero D'Avola, Sicilia DOC 2014
  Tenuta Rapitala 'Nahar' Nero D'Avola-Pinot Nero, Sicilia IGT 2013

Wine Links:

Monday, October 17, 2016

Post Harvest Sonnet

Late season bush vines of Roussillon

Yellowing leaves increasingly blanket
rolling parade grounds without its sweet fruit,
Crimson peppers in scatter break monotony
across many broad Sonoman vineyards.

Autumn in Beaujolais
Clear, crisp skies present starling swarms that cut
swirl sounds over a field settling to rest,
Green pigments absorb no more of its sun,
their cycle evolved as days now grow short.

Post Harvest in Burgundy
Phenolic compounds and sugars matured,
make the seasons wines that we must now vend.
Toil with sweat chase the last rays of autumn sun,
create the circle that I gladly drink!

Raise your glass then to celebrate harvest;
toil now rests in rays of soft fading light.

Cheers & Salute'!
Autumn in hills of Langhe,

Tuesday, September 27, 2016

BRAMBLES: September Harvests

Industrial harvesting the norm in New Zealand

An historically early start to the 2016 premium wine grape harvest of the North Coast continues as we move into the shorter days of autumn.  Seasonally, our local bounty presents itself at local farmers markets and displays colorfully across the produce departments of our favorite markets.  Harvest annually gives each of us an attachment to our local landscape, to its rich, nurturing environment and the sustainable talents of its many dedicated local farmers. Here in Sonoma county, recent Harvest Fair Awards annually offer a marketing boost to many a small to medium sized winery; often presenting an all too brief, fleeting opportunity that can reward the tireless production efforts, the demanding work that occurred long ago in their respective local vineyards and cellars.

Effects from sustained drought and recent years of above average winegrape yields combine with ever increasing costs of farming to consistently challenge these local grape growers. Not only a surplus suppression of the spot market grape pricing, but also the vanguard of vineyard pests such as the european grapevine moth and the glassy-winged sharpshooter continue to keep growers ever vigilant, even as combative efforts continue in many research labs such as those of UC Davis & Fresno State.  Current mergers and real estate acquisitions now trend across much of the premium wine sector, spurred on by the rise of premium retail wine sales, allowing bigger wine companies to strengthen their positions as consumers 'trade-up'. Even as growers here increasingly move towards ecological vineyard sustainability under the sun of this unprecedented environment, our local grape farmers still continue produce some of the finest winegrapes in the world.  It is their collective efforts, this rich annual bounty that we celebrate!
Cap of red grape skins from CO2 production

With this year's early fruit set due to fair spring conditions, generally cooler nights across most regions, and a longer than average vineyard hang-time that allows the phenol and flavor developments that characterize a higher quality vintage, most growers will currently be satisfied with their results. "While crop loads are down, the vines are very focused on the remaining fruit. It should be another high quality year", according to Santa Lucia Highlands grower, Steve McIntyre.  "It's been a nice, relatively even season without extremes", noted Russian River Valley winemaker, David Ramey.
A new grape pomace hill in Carneros, Napa
As wine lovin' consumers we often pull a bottle to share, to enhance a meal or to celebrate an event.  That wine can fulfill or exceed thirst-driven expectations, it can impress our fellow tasters with its prominence or its rich complexity or its terrific value.  While it has long been simply said that great wine is made in the vineyard, in most of those bottles it is simply the rewarded efforts of September harvests.  Thank you California premium grape farmers!

Cheers & Prost!

Tasting Values:
Sherwood Estate; Sauvignon Blanc; Marlborough 2014 - a green straw hue introduces generous  aromas of green wet mop with jalapeno, then presents searing acid and lime pith extending to a long finish.

Ribeauville; Riesling Vendanges Manuelles Alsace 2015 - light golden tone offers confined aromas of under-ripe stone fruits, and then wham!; glorious body of focused acid carries stone fruits, citrus and mineral across a viscous body to a finish that I am still tasting.

Monday, August 29, 2016

BRAMBLES: What to Drink Next?

As the tasting glass was returned to the bar, he sheepishly looked up and offered that he really likes wine, but was unable to talk about it. "I am not a poet", he declared.  We should not be required to be lyrical in order to enjoy a glass of wine, yet, the marketing focus increasingly seems to be that wine consumers should to be able to confidently offer some quippy 'wine-speak' to demonstrate their prowess as knowledgeable wine lovers. Has wine loving reached the point in its luxury consumerism that we only pronounce enjoyment in our glass of syrah that 'offers 'mulled juniper berries and damp forest floor'?

Throughout its long history wine has been a social beverage, a libation to be shared and enjoyed responsibly.  As a luxury commodity however, premium wine has earned(paid for) its long and increasingly marketed history, evolved from booze for the privileged to a fine gentleman's refreshment, to a liquid symbol that segregates the proletariat.  On one hand it is evelage(rising or development) for such a pleasure as wine, something that was felt as strongly as poetry in a bottle  to be described in a lexicon of poignantly beautiful terms.  But at its core, wine is about the delicious, individual discovery to be found in a every glass.
Austria's Heuriger wine tavern

Brilliant color, perhaps found no where else in nature, combined with the symphony of aromas that lift from the glass only begin to introduce wines' charms.  That tactile dance in your mouth, the complexity of its delicious liquid personality, and lingering aftertaste warmed on the palate to enhance its unique memory combine to make our individual relationship with wine something quite special.  Genetic variations in individual taste perceptions mixed with our unique food histories result in no two of us having the very same taste perceptions, meaning that the wine party in your mouth and brain are yours alone!  All the more reason to share the pleasure of the experience, and raise a glass(or two).

Glossy industry magazines flush with premium brand advertising, those lifestyle features promoting a particular glamour label, combined with the omnipresent shelf talkers of retail displays commingle to find us swimming in a remontage(pump-over) of marketplace enhancement that seduces wine consumers without yield. Reach for a bottle off a retail shelf, and collect a wine-speak catch phrase in the bargain.  Even as the overwhelming volume of wine we consumers regularly drink is below the premium categories, our expedition into higher priced bottles finds us within a torrent of testimonials and inherited greater responsibilities to speak of wine knowledgeably. And, for novice premium wine consumers a little sense for wine will reward beyond the pocketbook and into the unique qualities to be found in every glass.

"The joy is in the journey"' certainly applies to wine with its individual and emotional connection to our sense of pleasure. So then it may be most important for wine lovin' consumers just to venture forth, to continue to explore different labels, regions beyond the norm.  In doing so they will begin to absorb wine knowledge in the most pleasurable way, one glass at a time, no matter how they can describe it. Now, what to drink next?


Tasting Values:
Piero Mancini 2014 Vermentino Di Gallura 2014; yellow-green hue, citrus and mineral aromas, with moderate acidity leads notes of yellow apple, stone fruit and a kiss of bitter almond; and dances with white fish or light dishes! (could not help myself)

Saturday, July 30, 2016

BRAMBLES; Taste That!

"The wine one has drunk can't compare to the wine one is about to drink"

Local grape crops have begun to change colors, an annual occurrence that this year is arriving early. It is veraison, where the fruit acidity(malic) declines, allowing tartaric acids to become increasingly prominent, and while then gradually increasing the production of sugars.  Its natures survival cycle, as the vines maturing propagation needs and its cycle of ripening continue to physically evolve.

Nearby, early ripening, high acid Pinot Meunier begins our harvests in the cool, dark hours of a late July Thursday morning, destined to be used in regional sparking wines. Part of a traditional and time honored recipe, Meunier is widely planted in its ancestral homeland of Champagne, and remains an important building block here to our many local sparkling house cuve'es or blends.

Local birds, too, have also noticed the color change, an indication that the seeds found in the fruit were ripening, becoming less bitter.  It becomes an increasingly common site across these endless acres of manicured rows, draped with netting to protect the precious harvest of premium wine grapes valiantly enjoying their final hours of sugar producing sun, the culmination of the annual cycle.
Verasion begins maturity

Just like the birds, our recognition of what is in our wine glass prepares our wet appetite.  Hue, clarity, brilliance and intensity that are recognized prepares us for an anticipated and hopefully delicious wine experience. On site, dark wines should then remind us of dark fruits, offering the opportunity to enjoy its unique color and flavor profile. Rising from the glass are complex and volatile aromatics that when perceived individually translate to countless aroma memories, many times too numerous or congested to be clearly recalled. Yet, absorbing the air-mixed nuance from the glass is one of the joyful traits of most quality wines. Just Imagine. Could that be the aroma of stewing fruit on the stove-top with a whiff of a cigar box or hint of citrus fruit bowl nearby? Imagine!

Site, sniff, savor and swallow(or spit)

Feeling the sensation of drawing wine into your mouth; holding on the palate it as we warm it up, making those many impressions found more perceptively volatile.  As we take in a small amount of air, and the hundreds of airborne compounds rise to reinforce our first aromatic impressions, sending these countless flavor memories to our brains.  The flood of signals are recognized, reacting with our taste memories to create an impression of past experiences. The taste lingers, offering us the unique opportunity for recognition to be savored; a lingering expression that can even follow beyond the eventual swallow.  This taste recognition, repeated, promotes our ability to increasingly recognize the physical effects of and the emotional memories that exist for each of us to enjoy in every wine.

Tasting is a discipline, to be sure.  But the rewards await, compounded by the repeat of the exercise.  How has that wine in the glass changed from its initial impression?  When reacting with food pairings does the tasted wine display other facets of its diverse personality? When repeated, the wine tasting exercise beckons to explore, to go further, beyond our comfort zones and invariably offers the taster the chance to 'expand' the palate with broader recognition.  And we can suddenly realize that this hedonistic exercise searching for pleasure in a glass actually offers the taster an opportunity to alter the perception, the change the cadence of passing time.  As we take a cue from our local birds, it all begins with the recognition of what is held in the glass. Now, taste that!